THE VISION
For Louis Ghewy, the creative process begins with the clothes.
"I love fashion. I always have, since I was little. I love clothes and the message they can carry, or the character you can create through them. It's a sense of escapism." It's what first drew him to hairstyling at 14, and remains central to his work today. "Fashion is the reason I decided to do hair at 14, so seeing the clothes and hearing the story behind them is almost my favourite part of the process."
For Julie Kegels SS27, conversations began in July, long before the models stepped onto the runway. Working closely with Julie, Louis explored how the collection's central theme of gravity could translate into hair. Makeup artist Inge Grognard interpreted the theme through cut-off lashes and a red lip that appeared to drip. For Louis, the conversation quickly turned to creating something that appeared to defy gravity altogether.
“We quickly came to the idea of a floating ponytail, but we wanted it to be a surprise, so the hair had to feel clean from the front.”
The illusion relied on contrast. From the front, the hair was simple and controlled. From behind, a ponytail appeared to float, suspended away from the model's natural hair. Even casting played a role. Louis suggested the effect would be strongest on models with shorter hair, allowing the suspended ponytail to have greater impact. Alongside the floating ponytails came another, less conventional idea: deliberately badly fitted extensions.
“Julie and I were discussing how there is something very beautiful about a weft extension and how I'm sort of obsessed when I see someone with bad extensions. I guess this stems from my pop star obsession in the early 2000s.”
The visible extensions introduced an intentionally artificial element to the hair, playing with the same theme from a different perspective. "In a way, with extensions, you're also fighting gravity."
THE TECHNIQUE
Both looks began with the same preparation, using Björn Axén Volume Thickening Spray before blow-drying the product into the hair.
The Floating Ponytail
For all its visual impact, the floating ponytail was surprisingly straightforward in construction. "The look is a lot easier than it looks. I guess the hero was the nylon thread!" A side parting introduced a slightly childlike quality, while the hair was secured into a low ponytail beneath the occipital bone. Working in pairs, the team threaded nylon through the elastic, carefully adjusting the distance between the model's natural ponytail and the separate cut-off section before securing it with a triple knot. The result was a simple but striking illusion, where the construction itself became the defining feature of the look.
The Exposed Extensions
For the second look, the hair was centre-parted and tucked behind the ears, with two sections secured together at the nape. Session Kit Cover Clips held the shape in place, while the Mondo Artist Brush and Björn Axén Just Right Hairspray created a clean, controlled finish. Four rows of clip-in extensions were then added, deliberately retaining the visible, imperfect quality that inspired the look.
Additional materials included Björn Axén styling products, clip-in extensions and nylon thread.
Explore the tools behind the look
- Mondo Artist Brush — For creating a smooth, controlled finish.
- Session Kit Cover Clips — For holding the hair in place during styling.
- Session Kit Sectioning clips - For sectioning and maintaining control
THE KIT
MEET THE ARTIST
Born in Brussels, Louis Ghewy studied hairstyling in Antwerp before moving to London in 2011. Influenced by postmodern punk, Belgian fashion and Golden Age Hollywood, he developed his technical foundation at Vidal Sassoon and Toni & Guy. His work combines conceptual thinking with technical precision and experimentation. In 2019, he was selected for the British Fashion Council's New Wave: Creatives, recognising a new generation of creative talent.
Portrait by Willy Vanderperre
